Tourmaline, a gemstone beloved for its extraordinary range of colours, has become increasingly popular in jewelry designs. However, with such a vast variety, finding the perfect tourmaline can seem daunting. This guide will walk you through the essential factors to consider when selecting a tourmaline that suits your taste, budget, and needs.

Understanding Tourmaline Quality

When determining the quality of a tourmaline, several key factors play a role, much like any other gemstone. These include colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight. However, due to tourmaline's unique mineral structure and the variety of colours it presents, understanding its quality requires a bit more nuance.

Colour

Colour is the most important factor when it comes to evaluating tourmaline quality. As tourmaline exists in a vast array of hues, the vibrancy and purity of its colour significantly affect its value. Some colours are rarer and more desirable than others, such as the highly coveted neon blue-green of Paraíba tourmaline or the deep reds of rubellite. Quality is assessed on three main aspects of the stone’s colour:

• Hue: The primary shade of the stone, whether it's blue, green, pink, red, or multicoloured. Certain hues, such as the neon blue of Paraíba tourmaline, fetch a premium price because of their rarity and intensity.
• Tone: Refers to how light or dark the stone is. Tourmalines with medium to medium-dark tones generally command higher prices, as these tones often appear richer and more vibrant.
• Saturation: A highly saturated tourmaline has an intense and pure colour, free from grey or brown overtones that can dull its appearance. Strongly saturated stones with vivid colours are considered of higher quality.

It’s also worth noting that pleochroism, or the ability to show different colours when viewed from different angles, can add to a tourmaline’s beauty and enhance its value.

Clarity

Clarity in tourmaline refers to the absence or presence of inclusions. While some inclusions are accepted in certain tourmaline varieties, particularly rubellite and indicolite, which are known for having more inclusions, clarity remains an important quality factor. Tourmalines that are "eye-clean," meaning they have no visible inclusions when viewed with the naked eye, are more desirable and thus of higher quality.

Paraíba tourmaline, even with some inclusions, can still hold high value due to its exceptional colour. However, excessive inclusions that affect the stone's transparency or overall appearance will lower the quality. Generally, inclusions such as fractures, which can make the stone more fragile, reduce the value significantly.

Cut

Tourmaline is typically cut in a variety of shapes to maximize its natural colour and brilliance. A well-cut tourmaline will display a symmetrical shape, excellent polish, and proper proportions that enhance its light performance. Gem cutters often orient the stone to emphasize its pleochroism or to bring out its deepest, most attractive colours.

The skill of the cutter can greatly impact the final appearance of a tourmaline. Poorly cut stones may appear dull or lifeless, even if they have excellent colour or clarity. The best cuts reflect light evenly across the surface, enhancing the stone’s sparkle and depth.

Carat Weight

Tourmaline is available in a wide range of sizes, with larger stones naturally being rarer and more valuable. Carat weight directly impacts the price of tourmaline, but it is important to consider that the value increase in tourmaline is not solely based on weight. A larger stone of inferior colour or clarity will be less valuable than a smaller, high-quality one.

That being said, stones larger than 5 carats, especially in rare colours like Paraíba blue or rubellite red, are particularly prized. For more affordable options, smaller stones with exceptional colour and clarity can still provide stunning jewelry pieces.

Treatments and Enhancements

Many tourmalines undergo treatments to enhance their colour or clarity. While treated stones can still be highly desirable, understanding the nature of these treatments is key, especially when considering long-term care and value. Heat treatment is the most common method used to improve the appearance of tourmaline, particularly in pink, red, and Paraíba varieties. This process is considered stable and permanent, making heat-treated stones widely accepted in the gemstone market. However, untreated stones often command a higher price due to their rarity.

Irradiation is another treatment occasionally used to enhance pink and red hues, but it is less stable than heat treatment. Stones that have undergone irradiation may see their colours fade with prolonged exposure to sunlight or heat. As such, it is important to ask whether a stone has been irradiated when purchasing it, as this affects its durability.

Some tourmalines, particularly those with surface-reaching fractures, may be treated with oils or resins to improve clarity. While this can enhance the stone’s visual appeal, it can also reduce its long-term durability and may require extra care. Oiling is not common in higher-quality tourmalines but may be found in stones with lower clarity.

As with any gemstone purchase, it is essential to inquire about treatments from your jeweller, ensuring that you are fully informed about the stone’s history and its proper care requirements.

The Timeless Appeal of Tourmaline

Tourmaline is a gemstone that captivates with its exceptional range of colours and versatility, making it a perfect addition to any jewelry collection. Whether you're drawn to the unique multicolour bands of watermelon tourmaline, the vibrant pinks of rubellite, or the rich greens of verdelite, this gemstone offers a world of possibilities. Its ability to suit various styles—from bold statement pieces to delicate, everyday jewelry—ensures that every tourmaline creation is truly distinctive.

At Jewelry Design House by Jivan, our carefully curated tourmaline jewelry collection showcases the finest examples of this magnificent gemstone. Every piece is crafted with attention to detail, celebrating the stone’s natural beauty and unique colour variations. Whether you're looking for a statement ring or a pair of subtle earrings, we have something to complement your style.

For a more personal touch, we offer free custom design consultations to turn your dream jewelry into reality. Whether you envision a striking watermelon tourmaline ring or an elegant necklace, our expert designers will work closely with you to bring your ideas to life in a piece that reflects your personality and taste.

Let us help you create something extraordinary. Book your free custom design consultation today and discover the endless possibilities of tourmaline jewelry.